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Crafty Crafts

Charlie Rainbow Wolf

Litha, or Midsummer, marks the middle of the summer (in the Northern Hemisphere) and the time of year where the nights are at their shortest. It’s the apex of the sun’s revolution; everything is growing like mad. It’s the time of fetes and festivals, and when the Oak King rules.

It’s also a time when there’s some urgency to start getting things accomplished before winter. As the sun peaks, it whispers the long dark nights are on their way again. The Oak King will soon surrender to the Holly King; the cycle continues.

Melt and Pour Soap

What better way to relax after a long day out in the sun than to take a soothing shower or recline in a beautiful bath? The melt-and-pour method of soapmaking is quick and easy. It’s also a good way to use up the little scraps of soap that linger in the soap dish. My mum-in-law taught me that; she kept these scraps in a jar on her old Aga stove, and when the jar was full, she would mix the soft soap together then tip it into a container to harden into a bar again.

Materials

Soap: For small batches, I favor castile soaps, usually available from grocery stores or online retailers. If you plan on making soap regularly, consider bulk-buying the soap base from a specialist supplier. Hobby and craft shops offer something between the two; not bulk, but enough soap base to make several bars.

Mold: Soap molds are fun! They’re reusable and affordable, and available from most places that sell the soap base. No mold? No problem. Use an old yogurt pot or the bottom of a plastic jar. The bottom of a pop bottle makes a great mold, because the uneven bottom turns the soap into a massage bar. I favour the silicon molds; it’s easy to get the soap out of them.

Glass jug

Pan

Spoon (one that you won’t be using for food)

Something to grate the soap: Some soapmakers use an old food processor, some a cheese grater; I just use an old knife.

Fragrance oil (optional): I use essential oils in my soap, but fragrance oils are acceptable and often less expensive. Make sure they are safe to use in soap. Some fragrance oils are only suitable for candles.

Colorant (optional): Commercial food colorings might discolor over time. There are colorants specifically made for soap and bath products. My favorite is clay; various clays add different properties to the soap and give it a lovely natural hue.

Cost: A bar of castile soap is less than $3 most places; buying in bulk is cheaper per bar but initially more expensive. A silicone soap mold with multiple cavities for more than one bar of soap is around $5. If you want to invest in soap molds, fragrance oils, herbs, colorants, or other inclusions, the sky’s the limit as to how much you will need to spend. Lavender oil is readily available and inexpensive and goes well with purple Brazilian clay—the clay is $5 or so an ounce and a little goes a long way. Any old knife you have on hand to grate the soap will do; you don’t need to use a food processor or even a cheese grater.

Time spent: It doesn’t take long at all to melt and pour the soap, but it’s best to let it cure overnight before it is used.

Lather Up!

Cover the work surface with old paper, particularly if coloring will be used. Finely slice the soap into small cubes or slivers and put them in the glass jug. Put the glass jug in the pan of gently simmering water. The soap should melt fairly easily, especially if it is a designated melt-and-pour soap base.

Once the soap is melted (give it a thorough stir to ensure there are no lumps), add the fragrance oil and colorant. The strength of both is a matter of personal choice, but go lightly—it cannot be removed once it’s been added. I usually use about 4 drops of oil to 1 bar of soap and add the coloring bit by bit until I get the pastel shade I’m seeking.

Pour the soap into the mold. Let it set somewhere cool for at least two hours before removing it—overnight is better. The smaller the mold, the quicker the soap will set. I’ve found it easier to remove soap from silicone molds than the harder plastic ones, but neither is difficult.

Once you’re familiar with the process, it’s possible to add all kinds of inclusions to the soaps. Oatmeal makes a nice exfoliant; for a harsher texture, ground seeds and nuts might be added. Some herbs and flowers—sage or marigold, for example—work well when added to the soap; others—like lavender or rose—tend to go a funky color after a few days, which won’t harm the soap, but it could look ugly. Mostly it’s best to sprinkle dried flowers and herbs on the top of the bar as it’s setting. Have fun with this and experiment; it’s good clean fun!

Suppliers

JOANN and Michaels are craft shops that have both a physical and an online presence.

Brambleberry.com and bulkapothecary.com are online suppliers of bulk materials.